Upgrade Your Big Green Egg Gasket: Step-by-Step Replacement Guide

Why Upgrade to a Rutland Gasket

Upgrading to Rutland brings several clear advantages. It lasts far longer than felt, provides superior heat resistance, and can be more economical when purchased from small suppliers who cut it to length.

1. Extreme Temperature Resistance – The fiberglass material withstands very high temperatures without breaking down.
2. Longevity – The increased durability reduces the frequency of replacements and helps maintain a consistent seal for better cooking control.
3. Lower Cost – Sourcing the gasket material directly (for example from small suppliers who cut it to length) can be very affordable—my replacement material cost only $11.

Supplies and Tools List

Gather your materials before starting. The Rutland gasket material and a high-temperature silicone adhesive are essential; the rest make the job easier and cleaner.

• Rutland gasket material – Have it cut to the correct length before you begin.
• High-temp silicone adhesive (Permatex Ultra Copper or equivalent) – for a secure, heat-resistant bond.
• Paint scraper – to remove the old felt gasket.
• Drill-mounted paint/rust stripper or abrasive attachment – to remove old adhesive residue.
• Butcher paper, foil, or a trash bag – to protect the interior from debris while you work.
• Pumice or scouring stick – for fine cleaning of the edge.
• Sharp scissors – to trim gasket ends cleanly.
• Shop vac – to remove dust and debris.
• Wax paper or aluminum foil – to protect the lid during curing.
• Straight razor blade (optional) – to trim cured excess adhesive.

How to Replace Your Big Green Egg Gasket

The Rutland gasket is installed only on the bottom rim of the Egg, but it helps to remove the old gasket from both top and bottom for a clean working area. Removing the lid is optional but can make access easier. The key during installation is to compress the Rutland material as you work so it expands and fills the full edge width once glued in place.

Step 1: Prep and Protect

Cover the interior with butcher paper, foil, or a trash bag secured with tape to keep debris out while you remove the old gasket. Wear eye protection and gloves for safety. Removing the lid is optional; I left mine on and still completed the job without issue.

Step 2: Remove the Old Gasket

Removing the old felt gasket is the most tedious part. Use a paint scraper to pull off the bulk of the material, then a drill-mounted abrasive or rust stripper to remove stubborn adhesive. Finish with a pumice stone or scouring stick to remove fine residue. Avoid using wire brushes or strong chemicals that might damage the ceramic surface and affect adhesion. Acetone can sometimes help but may not remove all residue.

Step 3: Mark Your Guidelines

Fold the Rutland gasket in half and mark the center with masking tape, then mark quarter points. Mark the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock positions on the Egg with masking tape as well. These reference points help ensure even compression during installation.

The Rutland strip is typically longer than the Egg’s circumference; for example, an 84-inch strip will compress to a roughly 67-inch circumference. Proper compression is essential so the 5/8-inch gasket expands to cover the full 1-1/4 inch edge width once installed.

Step 4: Apply Adhesive

Work in 4–5 inch sections, starting at the back center. Apply a bead of high-temp silicone adhesive to the clean rim and use a putty knife to butter the bead slightly so it’s even. This creates a consistent bed for the gasket to adhere to.

Step 5: Install the Gasket

Compress the gasket as you go and press it into the wet adhesive so it will expand later to fully cover the egg’s edge. Use a block of wood covered with wax paper or a wallpaper roller to press the gasket firmly and evenly into the adhesive. Check your quarter marks frequently to ensure consistent compression and alignment.

Step 6: Complete the Circle

When you reach the starting point, make a clean butt joint with sharp scissors. If the ends are slightly frayed, a quick pass with a butane torch will tidy them up. Make sure the joint is tight and well seated in the adhesive.

Step 7: Cure the Installation

Cover the opening with wax paper or foil to prevent excess adhesive from sticking to the lid. Carefully close the lid, ensuring it is properly aligned, and let the adhesive cure for 24 hours. After it has fully dried, trim any excess cured adhesive with a straight razor or utility knife.

Once cured, run a non-cooking burn for about an hour to remove any residual fumes or contaminants before cooking on the Egg.

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